Gougères With Pancetta and Sage

Yield: About 5 1/2 dozen

Preparation time: 1 hour

6 ounces pancetta, cut into cubes, or bacon

A dozen whole sage leaves

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 cup bread flour or all-purpose flour (see note)

4 eggs, at room temperature

5 ounces shredded Gruyère, or another firm cheese like Manchego or aged cheddar

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put pancetta in a large skillet and place over medium heat. Cook slowly, stirring, until fat is rendered and meat is well browned and crispy all over, 12 to 17 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.

2. Sprinkle sage into the hot fat in the skillet and cook until crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer to plate with pancetta. When cool, finely chop pancetta and sage together.

3. Heat oven to 425 degrees and line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Have ready an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a sturdy mixing spoon).

4. In a saucepan, bring 1 cup water, butter, salt and cayenne to a boil. Stir in flour all at once, and cook, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, until dough forms a mass and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be quite stiff.

5. Scrape into the mixer and beat until cooled slightly, about 30 seconds. Add one egg at a time, letting it fully incorporate before adding the next. (If you don’t have a mixer, you can do this by mixing dough vigorously with a sturdy spoon.)

6. When eggs are incorporated, add Gruyère and continue to beat until it is mostly melted into batter, then add pancetta and sage and mix until combined.

7. Transfer batter to a large resealable plastic bag, and snip off 3/4-inch from one corner, or use a pastry bag. Pipe into balls, about 2 teaspoons each, leaving 1 inch of space between them. (Or, use a spoon to form the balls and drop onto baking sheets.)

8. Sprinkle Parmesan on top, and bake 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees, and continue to bake until golden and cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes more. Serve immediately, while still warm.

Note: The gougères will still be delicious if you use all-purpose flour, but bread flour makes them rounder and puffier.


New York Times News Service

Caviar and truffles are all well and good, but nothing says “I’m pampering my guests” quite like a tray of hot, crisp gougères straight from the oven.

It isn’t because these French cheese puffs are expensive to make. They’re not. A humble mix of grated cheese, butter and flour, they’re among the thriftiest tidbits on the hors d’oeuvres circuit. Nor are they difficult — though if you don’t have an electric mixer, some muscle will be required to beat the eggs into the stiff batter.

But there’s a certain amount of planning needed both in terms of timing and oven space to serve them while they’re still piping hot — or at least still very warm. That’s when their buttery, cheesy charm is at its most pronounced. Putting this kind of planning into action amid the swirling chaotic bustle of the average holiday cocktail party (at least, my average holiday cocktail party) is what I mean by pampering, albeit in an understated way.

The upside of serving gougères at a party is that you can make them ahead and freeze them before baking. Then, as your guests are unwrapping themselves from scarves and hats and winter coats, simply pop them, frozen, into the oven. By the time the drinks are poured, you’ll be able to pass around a steaming tray for immediate nibbling.

Plain gougères are wonderful, but the cheese puffs also take well to variations. You can change up the cheeses, as long as you always sprinkle some extra on top to bake up into a salty brown crust. Chilies, cracked pepper or spices add verve. Whole-wheat or rye flour reduces the puffiness slightly, but adds a lovely earthy, nutty flavor. Or, you can add intensely flavored, minced bits like herbs, garlic, capers and olives. Here, I use a combination of crisp pancetta and sage, but basil and olives would be lovely if you’re going for something vaguely Provençal. And so on.

If you can work fast or find a helper, you can fill your gougères with all kinds of tasty mixes. Slice them open while they’re still hot enough to burn your fingers, and spoon or pipe in the likes of smoked fish mousse, pimento cheese, dollops of chicken, or lobster salad. Or try filling them with a spoonful of crème fraîche topped by an even larger one of caviar — and pamper your guests to the extreme.